At first sight, Khabarovsk airport looks too small to receive 777's and the temperature on arrival is minus 11 degrees. Alexander Batalov himself meets us at the airport, which we didn't expect, along with Olga (the ground agent) and Misha, our translator. Alexander is small in stature but beams broadly and compliments us on our choice of boots and clothing, which is a great relief.  

First stop on route is the supermarket for camp provisions and we pick up some of our own food rations (just in case!). After a couple of hours we enter the boundary of the forest for the first time. There is snow on the ground but it doesn’t look too deep. Some way into the drive, Alexander stops the vehicle just over a bridge. Tiger tracks are all around, these are very fresh; as in minutes old. We are allowed out of the jeep but told to be careful as the tiger is likely to be close. It is now pitch black but the excitement level goes up. Alexander is convinced these are the tracks of a female he knows and she is watching us close by. We will find out how close she was tomorrow.

We eventually arrive at the base around 7pm and stop outside cabin 1, which is to be our home for the week. Cabin 1 is wild boar themed, which means skins on the wall and trotters for pen holders! A wall of heat from the ancient stove greets us. Welcome to Siberia and the land of the Amur Tiger!

A typical day in the forest starts with breakfast at 9am (as it doesn’t get light until almost 8am) and will be a form of porridge, with an egg and veg. Weather dependent, you will then head off to various parts of the forest to collect or review camera traps and look for evidence of movement (pug marks, scratch marks, indentations where they have laid down in the snow, etc.). During our stay our main transport was snow mobiles and the longest single trip on them was 5 hours. This location is not for the fainthearted or those who haven’t come prepared with the right clothing. Despite getting a couple of days of constant snow, which increases the temperature but restricts the parts of the forest you can reach, the temperatures got as low as minus 24 degrees. The snow mobiles also work you hard physically, as you need to assist the driver by leaning at the appropriate places; helping to clear many obstructions; walking to lighten the load when navigating steep climbs and even taking a turn in the sledge when the occasion requires it! You also need to be prepared for the odd tumble off the snow mobile! 

Lunch, which is usually some form of hot broth, like borscht, will be sometime around 2pm. You will then be back out in the forest for another couple of hours on activities. Dinner is generally around 6pm and you are encouraged to use the sauna they have built and if you are brave enough to use the birch leaves dipped in water to aid massage (i.e. hit yourself or your partner with!) and improve circulation.

We also enjoyed a couple of BBQ’s in the forest; one literally where everything was set up from scratch and another at a hunters lodge. Given the location, the food is generally wholesome, nutritious and tasty. Sergey is an excellent cook.