One of the questions I am most frequently asked is whether Rwanda provides a better experience than Uganda; especially given the high costs of permits. It’s certainly slicker, with tarred roads and modernised services. However, logistics in Uganda have improved – with scheduled daily flights between Entebbe and the Bwindi area catering to the short-on-time luxury traveller looking for a fly-in safari, while there is plenty for those who want to see more. From Bwindi you can travel north through Queen Elizabeth National Park, famous for its tree climbing lions and Kazinga Channel boat cruises, before heading further north towards the Rwenzori Mountains and chimpanzee trekking in Kibale Forest
Uganda offers a rawer, authentic into Africa feel. The trekking can be harder as there are fewer habituated groups; my trek to find them was a six hour round trip through the mountainous jungle. Equally I’ve had clients find them within half an hour of setting off. With the forest in Uganda opening onto farmers’ fields, the sightings can sometimes be in more open clearings.