But then, he’s back, hushing us to silence and gesturing for us to get into single file, pointing to the flat icy plains beyond which, to me, looked totally empty – until I looked through the binoculars. Any there it was, an actual real polar bear lying on the ice over a seal hole, presumably waiting for lunch to leap into its mouth, and next to it no less than two polar bear cubs. Even from this distance, their presence was heart-stopping and I started planning my escape route, just in case…however, I now fund myself crouched in single file awkwardly walking towards this massive predator and her two sons, of which neither were cute and cuddly looking, but absolutely massive in size and starting to notice us. Their heads had perked up and they appeared to look straight into the lens of my binoculars where I stood, and they slowly started to walk towards us. I looked around and no one else seemed to be panicking so my sense of safety was restored as I watched them, the distance between us decreasing until their mother rounded them up, and presumably telling them that we taste no good and that they should get back to the seal hole.
After the cubs had done this twice, the mother called them away and they walked off into the distance, clambering a small (from this distance anyway) iceberg and using it as a look out on the way.