About the guides in Madagascar
I have to say that all of our guides on the ground are incredible. I have generally been the first at all the good lemur sightings and other tourists have found them due to our guides hard work. By the time they have arrived, I have had a good 15 minutes with these beautiful creatures and can then leave Piccadilly Circus to fight over the best photo spots.
Today I saw two verreaux sifakas in Isalo who haven't been spotted in months and they were chilling by the path on our way through to the waterfall, yet no one else saw them. As soon as we left they danced off into the distance.
In Ranomafana I had 4 Mille Edward sifakas to myself for 20 minutes (our tracker had found them) and was so privileged to see these beautiful creatures in the wild. I was also fortunate enough to see the only two remaining greater bamboo lemurs in the wild in the world; it's rare to see them. I then left them to over 30 tourists as that's when we heard our tracker had found the sifakas.
I was not so fortunate with the elusive aye aye. At Kianjavato we went out to where a mother and her 3 week old baby were sleeping (a good 45 minute hike up steep hill in dark) and waited in pitch black for four hours for her to leave her nest, but at 10.15pm we had to leave as Miahy was worried about being targeted by bandits on the way home (which is quite common after midnight on the roads).
Other news is that I bought a Valiha which is a traditional musical instrument ( I collect these). It's beautiful with carvings of lemur, baobab, zebu etc. After having bought it I went for lunch and two guys rocked up and one had a Valiha, the other a guitar, and they started playing. So excited by this, I left my lunch and ran to the car to get mine. One of the med tuned it, played it and taught me the basics. He said mine has a beautiful tone. I bought his CD and it has proven to be a very good soundtrack in the car for the incredible scenic drives down the N7.