Borneo Family Trip Report

Sandra Kossacoff

16 Sep 2015

A pygmy elephant, wild orang-utans and much more ...

DAY ONE

We spent our first day in Kota Kinabalu, Borneo resting up after our long flights from the USA.  We found our way to a delightful Italian restaurant called Grazie for dinner and retired early to get some rest. 

DAY TWO

We enjoyed a really nice breakfast at the hotel, followed by an introduction to our escort guide Michael for the first portion of our trip.  We departed for Kota Belud for a 30 km bike ride through the village.  After finishing at a beautiful beach, we went back to the city centre for lunch at an open air restaurant.  We returned to Kota Kinabalu in the mid-afternoon, and explored the local area, then packed and prepared for our early departure the next day.

DAY THREE

Today saw us board a plane to Lahad Datu, on the southern side of Sabah.  Once we arrived in the city, we first went for lunch at a local restaurant, then hopped into two vehicles for a 2 hour ride to our first jungle experience in the Danum Valley.  Our lodging at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge was incredible.  This area is the subject of great conservation efforts and we learned how the government and conservationists are working together to preserve the existing forest and assist with reforestation efforts for areas which have been logged.  It was incredible to take a nocturnal truck ride through the ancient rainforest our first night and spot some animals. 

DAY FOUR

We took an 8 km hike through some steep terrain, seeing orang-utans, birds, red leaf monkeys, centipedes and other creatures.  We climbed to an observation deck well above the lodge overlooking the entire valley, which was magnificent.  Suddenly, the mist rolled in, the clouds darkened, and we were donning our wet-weather gear to hike back in the rain.  After about half an hour, the rain stopped and we finished our hike with blue skies. We took another 3 hour hike in the late afternoon, first through more of the jungle, then to an incredible canopy walkway through the treetops, ending with a nocturnal hike back to the lodge.  Standing in the treetops of the primordial forest, listening to the birds, watching the moon rise and having a lizard slap Sandra's face and land on Casey's shoulder was indescribable.  On the way back to the lodge, we actually saw a flying squirrel fly from one tree to another.  It started to rain heavily during dinner and we huddled under the patio cover and dined as it poured around us.  It was magical and an evening we will long remember.

DAY FIVE

We got up early to take a final walk to the canopy walkway.  We drove back to Lahad Datu and transferred to another vehicle taking us to the village of Bilit and the Myne Resort.  We were soon off to explore the Kinabatangan River, taking a small motorboat downriver. 

We quickly spotted a pygmy elephant getting ready to swim across the river.

(Bornean joke:  Where does an elephant cross the river?  Anywhere it wants to!!)  We have never seen this behaviour by an elephant before!  Another turn on the river took us to a family of 6 elephants that shortly swam across the river as a group.  Again, fantastic and unexpected!  We spent almost 3 hours exploring the river, looking at macaque monkeys, proboscis monkeys, birds, monitor lizards and other river-dwelling animals.  

DAY SIX

We rose early once again this morning to explore the river by boat.  This time we took a hidden tributary to a lake, where we saw a wild orang-utan in a tree by the lake, more monkeys, birds and monitor lizards.  After breakfast, we went on a 2 hour hike around the property, spotting an orang-utan high in a tree, climbing an observation tower to look over the river and surrounding countryside, and crawling inside a merbau tree with a hollow trunk tall enough for 15 people to stand inside.  After lunch, we went to visit the Gomantong Cave, the largest cave system in Sabah.  

We spotted a mother and baby orang-utan on our walk to the cave and enjoyed watching them swing on branches between the trees. 

The cave was wild, filled with bats, cockroaches and guano.  The cave is famous for the swifts, birds which nest in the cave. We waited a bit to watch the bats fly out of the cave en masse for their evening activities.  By this point it was raining; the thunder, lightning and rain are dramatic.  There is a reason it is called a "rain" forest!

DAY SEVEN

The rain continued unabated that night, with huge claps of thunder and bursts of lighting.  Very dramatic and quite exciting.  We awoke that morning prepared to transfer by an open motorboat from the Myne Lodge to the Abai Forest Lodge. As our bags were loaded onto the motorboat, one of the lodge employees called to us to come see a huge python which had just been discovered eating some of the chickens at the property.  The snake was quite docile since it had just eaten, but we were content to stand at a railing and look at it from a distance.  During our boat ride down the Kinabatangan River, we saw another elephant by the water and a crocodile sinking down in the water as our boat approached.  We watched several types of egrets take flight and spotted other birds along the way as well.  

The highlight of our river journey was spotting a wild adult male orang-utan eating jackfruit in a tree just next to the riverbank. 

Our guide Michael told us that it was rare to spot a fully grown male orang-utan so close to the river and that it would probably be another 5 years before he would see another at such close proximity.  We were so excited to see the orang-utan's behaviour in the wild and to see him from such a proximate location!

We arrived at the Abai Jungle and in the late afternoon we boarded a motorboat for a three hour tour of the river.  Highlights included a fascinating experience watching a harem of silver leaf monkeys leap from tree-to-tree and a huge fight among a group of bachelor proboscis monkeys as two males tried to forcibly expel a third male monkey from their group so he could not compete for the female monkeys.  The dominant monkey and his ally actually ganged up on the soon-to-be-excommunicated proboscis monkey and shoved him into the river, where he proceeded to swim (!!), climb back up on the riverbank into the trees and attempt to rejoin the group.  The daring leaps of the proboscis monkeys between the branches of extremely tall trees had us cheering as if we were at a sports event!  We motored back in the dark, our path lit by fireflies, whilst searching for nocturnal animals – we spotted a baby crocodile by a mangrove tree!

DAY EIGHT

We awoke early the following morning for a boat ride on the river to an oxbow lake. We spotted more monkeys and birds, then returned to the lodge for breakfast before boarding a covered boat with some other passengers for our next destination. We rode to the end of the Kinabatangan River and entered the Sulu Sea, disembarking at a water village built on stilts over the water in the city of Sandakan. Our guide Michael took us to see St. Michael's Catholic Church and school and to a Buddhist temple on a hill overlooking the harbour to enjoy the view. We then drove and checked into the Sepilok Nature Resort. After lunch we walked over to the Sepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre and had a chance to watch an afternoon feeding of orang-utans being rehabilitated and eventually returned to the wild. It was so much fun to watch their antics as they competed for food and showed off their rope climbing skills! We then went to the nursery and watched the youngest orang-utans play with each other and show off for the viewers. It was a delightful afternoon!

DAY NINE

Our final day in the jungle and it was packed full of activities. We first returned to the Sepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre to watch the morning feeding. Unfortunately, as it was fruiting season and the orang-utans are readily able to find their own fruit on the trees, none of the orang-utans showed up for the morning feeding. We went back to the nursery to watch the babies play for a while, so the morning's visit was not in vain. We then went to visit the Sun Bear Conservation Centre next door, watching Bornean sun bears who have been rescued at play.

We returned to our lodge for lunch and thereafter drove about 20 minutes to the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary in time for their afternoon feeding. 

After watching enthusiastic proboscis monkeys and long-tailed macaques enjoy their feast, we were thrilled to spot a rare slow loris just as we were returning to our vehicle.

We ended our day at the Sepilok Nature Discovery Centre. Just as we climbed up into an observation tower, the skies opened and rain, thunder and lightning trapped us for about 30 minutes as we tried to wait out the unexpected rain storm. After a slight break in intensity, we tucked our cameras under our shirts and dashed back to the van. It was actually a perfect way to end our time in the Borneo jungle, with a tremendous rain in the rainforest!

We invited our guide Michael to join us for a farewell dinner as we fly back to Kota Kinabalu tomorrow to begin the rest and relaxation portion of our trip. We reviewed the highlights of the jungle trip and told stories of each of our travels and adventures. Michael is a knowledgeable, friendly and excellent guide and we have been very fortunate to have experienced the jungle of Borneo with him.

DAYS TEN - FOURTEEN

We departed Sepilok on Tuesday morning, stopping for a visit to the Sandakan Memorial Park, adjacent to the original site of a Japanese POW camp for Australian and British soldiers. As we did not know about the role of Borneo during World War II, it was an important opportunity to learn this history. We arrived at Kota Kinabalu in the early afternoon, where we bade farewell to our wonderful guide Michael and were transferred to the Shangri La Rasa Ria Resort in the town of Tuaran. We had a lot of fun relaxing, exercising, enjoying water sports and great meals at the resort. We took the hotel shuttle to Kota Kinabalu on Thursday night for a quick shopping expedition and dinner at our favourite Italian restaurant Grazie.

All in all, a wonderful way to end a fantastic time in Borneo!

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